Lights, Camera, Migraine: The story of Tokyo’s neon obsession

Tokyo: The city that never sleeps—unless, of course, you count the locals suffering from neon-induced migraines. There was a time when Tokyo glowed so fiercely you could spot its electric veins from the heavens—or at least from the top of Mount Fuji. But those days are fading. The neon signs, once kings of the night, are flickering out, replaced by colder, cleaner LEDs.

But where did all this neon madness begin? And why does it feel like we’re watching the final act of its shimmering spectacle?

 

Vibrant neon lights illuminating the streets of Tokyo at night.

Tokyo: A City Aflame with Light


Neon’s First Flicker: A Frenchman’s Bright Idea

In the early 1900s, a French engineer named Georges Claude had a thought: What if I take a gas, zap it with electricity, and make it shine like a radioactive jellyfish? And just like that, neon lights were born.

Claude’s invention wasn’t just a party trick—it was revolutionary. By the 1920s, Paris, London, and New York were aglow with neon signs, luring customers like moths to a burning advertisement. Tokyo, always hungry for the future, was watching.


Tokyo’s First Neon Glow: A Pre-War Spark

Neon arrived in Tokyo in 1926, when Pan Bakery in Shinjuku installed Japan’s first neon sign. At the time, neon was still a novelty, a glimpse of the future glowing above a city still grounded in the past. But it didn’t take long for businesses to realize the power of light to attract customers.. By the 1930s, neon was spreading, but its true explosion would come later. The war years dimmed the lights—literally. Tokyo’s skyline, once showing early signs of illumination, was blacked out during World War II.


Tokyo’s Neon Boom: Post-War Glow-Up

Fast forward to post-war Tokyo, a city reduced to rubble and ration books. The war had ended, but the night was still dark. Enter neon lights. Cheap, vibrant, and impossible to ignore, they became the symbols of Tokyo’s rebirth.

By the late 1940s and ’50s, Ginza and Shinjuku were alive with glowing kanji and katakana, hawking everything from whiskey to cabarets. Neon wasn’t just a sign—it was a statement: Tokyo was back, and it was never going to be boring again.


The Golden Age: When Tokyo Shined Like a Supernova

From the 1960s through the ’90s, neon became the visual soundtrack of Japan’s economic boom. Pachinko parlors, karaoke bars, and 24-hour ramen joints all fought for attention in a sea of flashing colors. Blade Runner-esque cityscapes weren’t science fiction—they were Tuesday night in Shibuya.

Tourists gawked, filmmakers swooned, and cyberpunk authors took notes. Tokyo wasn’t just a city; it was an electric dream.


Dimming the Lights: The Neon Exodus Begins

But as the 21st century rolled in, so did the accountants. Neon lights were expensive. Fragile. Tricky to maintain. Energy-guzzling? Not as much as people think (a typical neon tube is actually more efficient than incandescent bulbs), but still, LEDs were sharper, cheaper, and easier to replace.

By the 2010s, entire districts had traded their warm neon glow for the cold precision of LED screens. Harajuku, once a riot of neon-soaked rebellion, started looking suspiciously…efficient. The city was getting greener, sure, but something was missing.


The Dark Side of Bright Lights

Neon, as much as we love it, wasn’t built for the long haul. Its delicate glass tubes were like divas—dazzling but high-maintenance, always one flicker away from a meltdown. It bathed the night in artificial daylight, messing with circadian rhythms and giving insomniacs yet another reason to lie awake staring at the ceiling at 3 AM.

Local governments, sensing the shift, started cracking down on excessive light pollution. Regulations increased, and businesses made the switch to LEDs. The age of neon was flickering out.


The Future of Light: Holograms? Bio-Luminescent Trees?

What happens when Tokyo pulls the plug on neon? Will we drown in sterile LED glow? Or will something rise from the ashes?

Speculators dream of holographic billboards floating above Shibuya Crossing. Scientists toy with bio-luminescent trees lining the streets like something out of a Miyazaki fever dream. Who knows? What marvels await in the future of light? For now, they’re just dreams.


Neon Nostalgia: A Toast to Tokyo’s Luminous Past

So let us raise a glass (preferably filled with sake, under a fading neon sign) to the Tokyo that was—a city that once burned so brightly, it might have been visible from space (or at least from a very optimistic satellite).

Neon may be fading, but the memories of its glow are burned into Tokyo’s DNA. And just like the city itself, the light may change—but it will never truly go out.

 


Tokyo Shinjuku Neon Jungle 2020 – NIPPON WANDERING TV
Main image courtesy of Unsplash.com 

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